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TOP ISSUE Production Process 世界に誇るジャパンデニム

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Production Process
Japanese Denim

Posted on : Sep 11 , 2025

In Fukuyama, Hiroshima Prefecture, and in Okayama, we explored two key centers that sustain the globally renowned production of Japan Denim. Through these visits, we traced the creation of a single pair of jeans from the original line “EVERYDAY I LIKE.”

A textile factory boasting more than a century of history

In Fukuyama, Hiroshima Prefecture, we visited Shinohara Textile, a long-established factory with 117 years of history, whose roots lie in the production of Bingo Kasuri, one of Japan’s three major kasuri textiles.
As one of the few factories that still operate traditional shuttle looms, its reliable craftsmanship has long earned the trust of designer Ohara Asako.

The shuttle loom is characterized by its gentle weaving process, placing little strain on either the warp or the weft. By advancing slowly and carefully, it produces a fabric with a naturally uneven surface and a rich, textured depth.

Bundles of color-adjusted threads are brought into the factory, where artisans carefully thread between 2,000 and 8,000 strands by hand, without a single mistake. Far from an efficient process, it is one that demands the irreplaceable skill and experience of seasoned craftsmen.

Since new shuttle looms are no longer being manufactured, the factory acquires machines from closed facilities, circulating parts through repeated maintenance to keep them alive across generations.
At the same time, electronically controlled air-jet looms have been introduced, enabling a high-speed and stable production system.

The richly textured shuttle looms and the high-efficiency air-jet looms each have their strengths. Understanding both and selecting the optimal method according to the product is essential.

The Power of Division of Labor in a Sewing Factory

A sewing factory located not far from Shinohara Textile receives fabrics cut according to patterns. Six to ten staff members take their positions, working in a division of labor by parts. In just over three days, they complete as many as 500 pairs of denim.

Denim, a staple of casual wear, is often sewn under an efficient system of division of labor. Working with thick, stiff fabrics is by no means easy, yet skilled artisans handle the process smoothly. Their accumulated experience and craftsmanship underpin the fabric’s reliable quality.

Denim’s Texture Crafted by Hybrid Processing Techniques

The final stop was Wells, a finishing factory based in Okayama. This is the place often described as the “last stronghold,” where denim gains its unique character.

The first stop was the manual processing area. Various techniques—such as shaving and cutting adapted from woodworking machinery—are carried out under a division-of-labor system, giving each individual part its own distinctive character.

At the same time, Wells is also adopting new technologies. A notable example is the laser processing machine used in the denim we saw on this visit. Designs are created on a computer and then transferred to a laser machine, where the denim is precisely set and controlled by a computerized system.

After carefully pressing the denim, lasers are fired from all sides—front, back, and sides—instantly applying the desired effects.
While mechanization ensures speed and consistency, finer details, such as around the pockets, are still entrusted to the hands of skilled artisans.

Furthermore, through a process called “topping,” which involves layering washes and colors, the denim undergoes repeated washing and drying, creating a rich, textured depth.

The denim is then sent to a dedicated factory for finishing touches, including patch and button work, thread trimming on belt loops, and final pressing. Only after these steps is a single pair of jeans complete. It is the accumulation of these layered processes that gives each pair its form and character.

Finally, what was once a mainstream practice of handcrafting has now become a precious skill to be passed on to the next generation.

At the same time, factories continue to evolve in response to changing times. The introduction of machinery ensures stable supply and consistent quality, while meeting diverse demands—such as design fidelity and delivery schedules—requires flexible decision-making.

In this context, converters play an indispensable role, connecting designers with factories, bridging their visions, and building trust.

The denim of EVERYDAY I LIKE. is the result of countless factories and the dedication of countless people. It is delivered to customers not merely as a product, but as a testament to accumulated craftsmanship and trust.

After being introduced by Mr. Taguchi, the converter who guided us through the factories, we visited a recommended udon restaurant and also explored the beautiful streets of Kurashiki. This trip offered a renewed appreciation for both the craftsmanship we observed and the charm of the local area.

[Photos 1–3] Tempura udon topped with a generous, signature kakiage, served with firm, chewy hand-pulled noodles. The self-service oden is also excellent. (Restaurant: Teuchi Udon Taguchi)
[Photo 4] The picturesque streets of Kurashiki’s Bikan Historical Quarter.